martes, 23 de octubre de 2007

HISTORIA DE LAS BEBIDAS

ANIS:

El anís, ingrediente indispensable de un sinnúmero de bebidas, era usado en el Imperio de Babilonia, cerca de veinte siglos antes de Cristo. Los egipcios, los griegos y los romanos lo empleaban como planta medicinal y como especia aromática.

Cerveza :

Entre los años 9000 y 5000 A.C., la papilla cocida de cebada y agua era un alimento esencial para el hombre, y se supone que la actual cerveza nació de forma accidental, al dejar al aire libre esta cocción de cebada y agua, provocando la fermentación del cereal.

La cerveza es sin duda la bebida alcohólica de mayor antigüedad que se conoce. Ya hay registros de su consumo durante la epopeya sumérica de Gilgamesh (3.500 A.C), mientras que su difusión se multiplicaba en todo el mundo: en Egipto (con trigo), en el Africa negra (con sorgo), en México (con maíz) y en la China (con arroz o mijo).

Se trata de una bebida delicada, de bajo contenido alcohólico que no conviene añejar. Se la debe proteger del calor y la luz y dejar reposar en un lugar fresco. La temperatura ideal para beberla es de 7 a 8 grados, por lo que no conviene servirla demasido fría. La excelencia del producto final depende casi totalmente de la nobleza de los ingredientes con los que se la elabora, sobre todo con el agua utilizada, que muchas veces determina por sí sola las cualidades de la bebida.

Champagne :

Este néctar fue de descubierto por los burgundos, pueblo germánico, en el año 45 a.C. y envasado en el S. XVIII, por el monje Dom Pérignon. Pero, un rol no menos importante lo cumplieron en el período terciario ciertas esponjas, animalitos y microorganismos cuyos sedimentos fabricaron el yeso conocido bajo el nombre de Belimita quadrata, ya que sólo con el grano de las viñas cultivadas en terrenos ricos en éste es posible obtener champagne de primera calidad.

A fines del S. I d.C., cuando Francia producía una cantidad considerable de vino espumoso, el emperador romano Domiciano ordenó destruir gran parte de los viñedos de la Champagne, causando un grave daño.

Los romanos vedaban a los bárbaros comsumir vino, por lo cual se presume que, las primeras incursiones de los francos estaban basadas en la necesidad de conseguir esa bebida. Por esta razón, cuando se intalaron en la Champagne mejoraron los viñedos.

Antes de la batalla con los visigodos, San Remigio entregó al rey franco Clodoveo un barril pequeño de vino champañés y le dijo que triunfaría si, antes del enfrentamiento, el recipiente no había sido vaciado. El rey y sus caballeros consumieron el vino en abundancia, pero a pesar de ello, por milagro, no se acabó y derrotaron al enemigo. Tal hecho fue determinante para la conversión de Clodoveo a la fe cristiana.

Durante los mil años siguientes a este rey el cultivo de las viñas estuvo a cargo de los monjes cenobios y el comercio del este vino creció. Pero, un hito importante en su historia fue que a Dom Pérignon se le ocurrió utilizar tapones hechos con corteza de alcornoque, para reemplazar los de madera con cáñamo untado con aceite. Logró así tapar hérmeticamente la botella y controlar la segunda fermentación, la cual transforma el vino en champagne

Cognac :

La autoría de su invención, por incierta, está rodeada de leyendas. Una de ellas la atribuye a un comerciante holandés llevaba a su tierra vino de la zona de Charente, dónde está situada la ciudad de Cognac, centro industrial, y para aliviar la carga de la nave se le ocurrió destilarlo.

Sin embargo otra, no menos dudosa, atribuye la autoría a la inquietud de comerciantes ingleses importaban vino desde el territorio y resolvieron conservar el vino en toneles de madera para evitar deterioros.

La más romántica es la que asigna a un noble, en el S. XV, un sueño, en el cual se le indicaba someter al vino a una doble destilación y conservarlo en toneles de madera. Transcurridos 5 años quiso evaluar los resultados y que quedó prendado de de la sutiliza y el blend que tenía. Sobre lo que no existe discusión alguna es que el método de elaboración y añejamiento del cognac o coñac siguen siendo los mismos que en el S. XVI.


El café, como la Alhambra, un producto árabe :

Existen muchas leyendas sobre su origen, una sola tiene fecha. Es la que cuenta que en 1278 el profeta Omar, montado en su alazán perseguía una ave de inmaculado plumaje. Pero el ave era en realidad una enviada de Alá, quien tiene el poder de penetrar en los sueños humanos, y, antes de ser alcanzada se convirtió en un arbusto de flores blancas, signo de pureza, y frutos rojos, como la sangre de los fieles.

Ya en 1450 los peregrinos, en la Meca, bebían con unción, el líquido elaborado a partir de estos frutos y los musulmanes turcos, guardianes de la Puerta Sagrada, lo importaron y convirtieron en su bebida. Los lugares donde se servía esta bebida comenzaron a llamarse café y, allí se reunían los exégetas de la palabra de Alá, se discutían sobre las interpretaciones, por lo cual también se denominó a estos sitios Escuelas de la Sabiduría.

El vino en América:

Las primeras vides llegaron al continente americano en manos de monjes, ya que necesitaban el vino como elemento ritual. México tiene el honor de ser el primer lugar donde se plantaron, allí, una ordenanza de Hernán Cortés obligó a los propietarios de repartimientos a plantar mil sarmientos cada 100 indios que tuvieran a su cargo. Sin embargo, esta medida compulsiva no ayudó a desarrollar la industria vitivinícola.

En California los primeros intentos, que se llevaron a a cabo en 1532, fracasaron y recién cuando los jesuítas fundaron, en 1679, la misión de Loreto, se comenzó a desarrollar en forma sistemática el cultivo de la vid.

Hacia fines del S. XVI Perú y Chile eran los lideraban la producción de uva y vinos en toda América. El primero había recibido, en 1555, una variedad de uva negra cuyo cultivo se incrementó rápidamente y dió como resultado la elaboración del pisco, aguardiente que a la postre resultó ser la bebida más popular entre los peruanos.

Desde ese país la planta fue trasladada a Chile, en dónde su cultivo se vió favorecido por el terreno y el clima. De allí, llegó a la Argentina, por obra del padre Juan Cidrón, pero no a un lugar vecino con Chile sino a Santiago del Estero y de este recién fue a Cuyo. Sin embargo, a Salta y Catarmarca, las vides llegaron del Perú.

En Uruguay el cultivo se extendió a partir de mediados del S. XIX, aunque parecen existir indicios de plantaciones anteriores.


Ginebra o jenever:


La ginebra es una bebida blanca, de alto contenido alcohólico que se obtiene a partir de la destilación de alcohol de cereales, bayas de enebro y otros aromáticas. Existen diferentes variedades, pero las más importantes son la holandesa (jenever) y la inglesa (gin), que se diferencian entre sí por su aroma.

Esta bebida nació en el siglo XVII, en Holanda, por obra de un boticario llamado Leiden que mezcló la ginebra que se consumía, de muy baja calidad, con bayas de enebro, para suavizarla. Su nombre lo tomó del término holandés jenever, que significa enebro, que a su vez deriva de la palabra latina juniperus, origen de la castellana ginebra.

Cuando pasó a Inglaterra, el vocablo holandés se contrajo, convirtiéndose en gin. En ese país fue una bebida económica, lo que ayudó a su popularidad. En las tabernas, a su vez, el bajo costo fue motivo de marketing. Así por ejemplo se colgaron carteles con el siguiente anuncio: "Alegre con un penique, borracho perdido con dos peniques".

Fue por obra de los ingleses que esta bebida poco delicada y reservada a las más bajas tabernas se convirtiera en refinada. Con este propósito, se aumentó la dosis de enebro en la destilación y se agregaron otras especias y aromáticas, como el anís, el cardamomo, las semillas de coriandro y comino, el hinojo y la cáscara de naranja.

Licor :

El también llamado "alcohol de vino" o "aguardiente" era conocido por casi todos los pueblos de la Antigüedad. Según algunos, los verdaderos inventores de la destilación alcohólica fueron los árabes. De su lengua proviene la palabra "alcohol", que es la adaptación de al khul, nombre de un polvo finísimo que aún hoy usan las mujeres en Oriente para ennegrecerse los bordes de los párpados, las pestañas, las cejas o el cabello. A través de los Cruzados que regresaban de Tierra Santa, la destilación se conoció en Europa. Allí el aguardiente fue usado durante la Edad Media como medicina, por sus atributos revitalizadores.

Los licoristas italianos perfeccionaron la elaboración de licores en Francia agregándole al alcohol una mezcla de rosa, azahar, clavo de olor, canela y jazmín. Con esta nueva fórmula Luis XIV pudo amenizar sus citas con la duquesa de Valliére o la marquesa de Montespan ofreciéndoles rissol, un perfumado aguardiente con tintura de rosas.

En la corte de su sucesor, Luis XVI, los licores anisados gozaron de amplia popularidad y constituían el acompañamiento ideal de las animadas fiestas reales.



Ron:

"Quince hombres en el cofre del muerto.
¡Yo-ho-ho, y una botella de ron!
El aguardiente y el diablo hicieron el resto.
¡Yo-ho-ho, y una botella de ron!"

Esta canción la entonaba con la voz rajada por el aguardiente aquel "viejo lobo de mar" (old sea dog, como lo llaman los ingleses) que Stevenson ideó en la figura del capitán Billy Jones.

El personaje, famoso por tener el mapa que señalaba el camino para la Isla del Tesoro, se entusiasmaba con las estrofas cuando llegaba a la posada de Benbow y disfrutaba de esta variedad de licor. No por casualidad, el ron es la bebida más vinculada con historias de piratas y bucaneros de los siglos XVII y XVIII.


Tche o Té:

Esta bebida era conocida en China desde la época del emperador Sheng-Tung, en el año 2737 A.C.

Se cuenta que este monarca, preocupado por la salud de su pueblo, advirtió que en algunas regiones de su imperio eran menos usuales las epidemias. Intrigado, mandó a investigar el motivo y descubrió que en esas zonas sus habitantes bebían sólo agua hervida. A partir de ese momento ordenó que todos sus súbditos hicieran lo mismo, dando personalmente el ejemplo.

Un día, mientras caminaba por el bosque, Sheng-Tung se sintió sediento. Su camarero, provisto de cantimplora, encendió fuego y colocó el agua a hervir. Mientras esto sucedía unas hojas de un viejo arbusto cayeron planeando en el agua hirviente, que empezó a despedir un sutil aroma. Embelesado con la infusión, el emperador se convirtió en el primer, pero no único fanático del brebaje.

Se dice también que el emperdor K'ien Long lo consagró como la bebida nacional y que en el siglo IV se pregonaba y vendía en las calle. Hasta ese siglo, el té era una decocción, pues sus hojas maceradas con un mortero se hervían con leche, cebolla o cáscara de naranja. Luego, se convirtió en una infusión, al molerse finamente sus hojas secas, agregándole agua hirviendo y revolviendo el líquido con una varilla de bambú.

Marco Polo fue quien hizo conocer el té en Occidente, pero recién en 1610 la Compañía de Indias Orientales comenzó a comercializarlo en Holanda. Cuatro décadas más tarde fue introducido en Inglaterra como planta medicinal y siete años después Thomas Caraway abrió en Londres la primera tienda de té.

Tequila:


Una noche de tormenta, cuenta la leyenda azteca, un rayo penetró el corazón del agave. El choque entre frío y calor, la luz en movimiento y la oscuridad brotó como de una fuente un líquido blanco, puro que embriagó a los indígenas, tanto, que se encontraron ante el propio dios del rayo.

Desde ese momento, este líquido fue considerado hijo de la divinidad y quien lo bebiera era un hombre sagrado, por lo cual estaba habilitado a ejecutar ritos y danzas que estaban prohibidos a los demás. Así, el tequila al principio, sólo se utilizó con los efectos rituales, pero con el paso del tiempo la prohibición fue dejada de lado y se convirtió, en México precolonial, en la bebida más difundida.

Vermouth:

La costumbre de beber vino como aperitivo es milenaria. Ya en el siglo V A.C. Hipócrates, el precursor de los médicos, prescribía una fórmula de vino que tuvo gran repercusión en Roma y que, aseguraba, estimulaba el apetito y alegraba el espíritu.

Sin embargo, los primeros testimonios fidedignos parecen ser los dados por un caballero errante, oriundo del Piamonte, que en su libro “I segreti del signor Alessio” cuenta que en Baviera probó una bebida elaborada por los cerveceros locales, que contenía extracto de ajenjo y aguardiente y se se tomaba antes de las comidas para estimular el apetito. La llamaban vermouth, ajenjo o absenta, en alemán arcaico.

Inspirado en ese líquido, el caballero creó una fórmula propia. No tenía ajenjo ni era un aperitivo, pero su autor lo llamó igual vermuth y más tarde, durante una estadía en París, lo transformó en vermouth. De ahí en más esta palabra, con diferentes variantes, se transformó en sinónimo de aperitivo, a pesar de que existen diversos aperitivos alcohólicos entre los vinos.

Con todo, recién en el siglo XVIII nace el verdadero vermouth, concebido por otro italiano, el turinés Carpano, que quiso elaborar una bebida que fuera vino y que al mismo tiempo no lo fuera. Este proveedor de la Casa Real de Cerdeña tuvo éxito y en 1786 inició la producción del vermouth o wemth, como bautizó a su creación.

La bebida comenzó a expedirse en el café de Monzú Marendazzo, situado en la Piazza del Castello, en Turín, y muy pronto el local se transformó, gracias al vermouth, en uno de los salones más concurridos del Reino. Tal es así que entre los años 1880 y 1915 se ganó el elogio de ser el café más famoso de toda Italia.

Vino:

Si bien los geólogos han encontrado evidencias que afirmarían la existencia de vides en la era Terciaria, los primeros registros documentados de su cultivo son del año 7000 A.C. y provienen de Sumer, una zona ubicada al sur del mar Negro.

En el Egipto de los faraones se practicaba la vinicultura, actividad que contaba con la protección de Osiris, según aparecen en grabados de la época. De allí el consumo de vino se extendió a diferentes lugares de África y Asia, y también a Grecia, donde se le dio el nombre de "néctar de los dioses".

En efecto, Dionisios fue la divinidad a la que se le encomendaba el cuidado de los viñedos. La veneración por el vino continuó con los romanos, bajo el símbolo del dios Baco, al tiempo que la vid alcanzaba un lugar importante en la agricultura de esa civilización. Al expandirse el Imperio Romano, el cultivo de la vid llegó al Mediterráneo, pasando por el centro de Europa y convirtiéndose en una novedosa práctica. En España, en cambio, el vino ya era conocido gracias a la cultura fenicia.

Tras el desembembramiento de Imperio, la vid se refugió en la quietud de los monasterios, de los que luego salió hacia las regiones que hoy conocemos como típicamente vitivinícolas. Con el influjo de la Conquista de América las primeras plantaciones en nuestro continenete se realizaron en México hacia 1524. Poco después se extendieron a Perú, Chile y Argentina.

Whisky:

El whisky era desconocido para los ingleses hasta que, en 1746 derrotaron a los rebeldes escoceses, de ellos en cada familia había una destilería. Los vencedores aplicaron tan alto impuesto esta bebida que produjo, como reacción, la clandestinidad y un dicho popular fue: "un secreto guardado por la mitad del país y elaborado en la otra mitad". En 1823 el Duque de Gordon consiguió negociar con el gobierno británico la rebaja de impuestos, a cambio del compromiso que se trataría de suprimir la elaboración clandestina.

Gracias a este convenio el whisky llegó a Londres pero no tuvo éxito, fue considerado una bebida ordinaria, primitiva, pues era malta de pura cebada, sin blend, ya que no se mezclaba con alcoholes más livianos como se hizo luego.

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